Namche Bazaar to Lukla - November 10th 1999

Up early at 6ish, had been awake a lot in the night, thinking of the trek that is almost over and shopping Kathmandu, which souvenirs? Anyway, off at 7:30am out of the Sagamartha National Park at 9:00, stopped at Monjo for refreshments - the Kailash Lodge. Passed a couple of men cutting boards with a pit saw and others carving script on a huge boulder. The last half hour turned into a bit of a race, the Phakding suspension bridge rocked in protest and soon we were back at the first days campsite at Phakding - the Everest Guest House. A long lunch with Apple Pies brought in from the South Col Restaurant. Remembered that Phakding to Lukla was largely uphill so braced myself for the final conflict. Very tiring, especially the last couple of miles as it always seemed that Lukla would be around the next corner.

Eventually this came true, Lukla seemed even dirtier than I remembered it. Anyway back through the scruffy streets with chickens, dogs, trekkers - pale, clean shaven ones going up and suntanned bearded ones coming down, myself included. Had a couple of celebratory beers, the first since Kathmandu, then dinner. We called in the sherpas, yak men, cook boys and their sirdar, bought them beers and gave them their their tips and other presents. They seemed pleased with their bounty and we had a happy social evening before turning it to the tents for the last time.