Lobuche to Dingboche - November 9th 1999

Very cold at Lobuche overnight, left at 7:30am enthusiastic to get down valley into the sun, Lobuche doesn't get much as it nestles under the mountains. An hour later I was down at Thukla, the trail was icy and the chortens at the side of the Khumbu Glacier were beautiful in the low sun, a magical place. Met a scotsman coming up, he said that we must have started out early as we beat the Lobuche-Thukla time quoted in his guidebook. Had some lemon tea beside the Yak Inn with 2 yaks awaiting their loads. The two inns at Thukla disagreed about the altitude on their signs, the lower of the two claimed to be 20m higher.

Crossed the valley and took a different route from the one we had used on our way up to Lobuche. Across open Alpine style meadows, no flowers just the occasional juniper always prostrate over a large boulder reminding us how lucky we were to have clear blue skies and no wind. Lovely views back to Pumori, the snow covered cone. At the end of the meadows a group of chortens before dropping down into the Imja Khola valley. Great views from here up the Imja Khola with Makalu and Island Peak in the distance. Descended into the valley for elevenses at the Snow Lion Lodge in Dingboche, then walked down to our campsite through birch and rhodedendron forests. The sun was in my eyes all the way, I kept turning around for views of the Everest massif and Ama Dablam.

The campsite soon came into view, very picturesque among the trees, a two story lodge and two sets of tents being erected. Took off my boots and put on my sandals for the first time since Gokyo. My feet hurt, it had been a long day. Later on we were treated to a wonderful sunset with first Ama Dablam and the Everest painted with Alpenglow colours. This was our first colourful sunset, I sat down on the grass with my telephoto lens on my camera and took a succession of pictures until only the summit of Everest was illuminated by the setting sun.

Adjourned to the lodge and played cards whilst drinking lemon tea and hot chocolate. Another crystal clear night but warmer now that we are at a lower altitude than at late.