Lobuche to Gorak Shep - November 7th 1999

Extreemly cold night at Lobuche, frost all over inside the tent, didn't sleep well. Up at 4:45am, still dark, forced down some porridge before starting off. No wind but the first hour was very cold, then the first morning rays of sun hit the mountain tops. Cloudless sky, soon warmed up once the sun got down into the valley. Couldn't see our destination, just kept walking up and over ridges at the side of the Khumbu Glacier. Very icy trail all morning, eventually came over the last ridge and there lay Gorak Shep, just a couple of lodges, but a very welcome sight. Two cups of lemon tea were quickly dispatched before going up the hill, Kala Pattar. The mountains seemer clearer today so off we went. Kala Pattar is not visible from Gorak Shep, there is a rounded hill which hides the black rock. Kept turning round to look at Nuptse behind us, soon Everest appeared from behind Nuptse, dark and rocky unlike Nuptse with its huge snow fields and cornices. Soon a complete panorama unfolded with the Khumbu Glacier and ice fields in the foreground and the Himalayan giants, Nuptse, Everest et al., behind. Sat around for half an hour taking it all in, this is one of my life ambitions, to be here away from all the hustle and bustle at the whim of nature.

Slowly walked back down to the tea house and sat out in the sun, watched a couple of goraks (ravens) on the roof of the tea house. Decided to sleep at the lodge rather than in a tent tonight, hopefully for a better nights sleep before tomorrows exertions. The rooms each have two beds with thin matresses, no floor covering, just the same rocky ground as outside, the window was already frozen up at 5:00pm, no sun on this side of the building. Sleeping with Dave from Gloucester who snores like a motor bike. Interesting cost structure, the bed cost 400Rp, but if you ate at the lodge the cost was reduced to 250Rp. The lodge had a large comfortable lounge with the usual central yak dung burning stove. Despite being on the edge of human habitation, coke, beer, mars bars and pringles were available. The afternoon had been extreemly hot, read my guide book which said that temperatures plummet to 3 degrees farenheit at Gorak Shep on November nights, brrrrrr. When I went back to my room I found my pillow had frozen to the wall, I began to wish that I had stayed with my tent, too late now though....