Pheriche to Lobuche - November 6th 1999

Early 6:00am wake up call this morning, frost everywhere including inside the tent, fortunately breakfast being served in the Himalayan Lodge. Still very cold in the lodge, many people still sleeping in the lounge as we had our porridge and scrambled eggs.

Left Pheriche (14,141'), noticed the Himalayan Rescue Association building as we walked out of the village into the wide, flat valley, the temperature soon warmed me so I stopped to take off my thermals and fleece shirt. Cholatse and Taboche to the left of the valley brilliantly clear against the dark blue sky. Passed the tongue of the Tshola glacier coming down between the two mountains. The trail then climbed gently uphill to Duglha, just a couple of lodges where many trekkers had gathered for refreshments, its 10:30 and we are at 14,990' already. Hot sun blazing down, ravens and a large bird of prey wheeled around to entertain us. As usual surrounded by amazing scenery, Ama Dablam and Kangtaiga to the south, the former having lost its characteristic shape when viewed from here. Great lunch of Spam, tibetan bread, cabbage and lots of hot lemon tea. Then a gruelling climb uphill through a boulder field to the snout of the Khumbu Glacier. At the top a cluster of memorials mainly to Sherpas but also one for Scott Fischer from the ill-fated 1996 Rob Hall expedition. Hundreds of small stone cairns as well, a very emotional place.

Soon the valley opened up and I could see all the way past Pumori and Kala Pattar to another group of snowy mountains. I could just make out the conical shape of Pumori which was largely cloud covered. Nuptse loomed to the right, I gazed up at the dark and light rock formations on its face. Kala Pattar did not look too intimidating and everyone's hopes of conquering it tomorrow were increased by this view. Walked alongside a partially frozen stream, only a slight incline but very tiring nonetheless. Eventually we stumbled into Lobuche, not much of a place, just a few scruffy lodges surrounded by a tented village. There is not much space at Lobuche, the village has steep mountain sides to the north and west and a river between it and Nuptse to the east. Easily the least impressive place we have passed through so far. Nuptse looms majestically in front of the tent site so there is at least one good thing about Lobuche. Recently there had been problems with water contamination by human waste, not surprising as two toilet tents had been erected very close to the river.

Behind Lobuche is a steep rock face with a line of small cairns along its horizontal summit, reminded me of Indians coming over the horizon in old cowboy films. Cloud came down mid-afternoon and the temperature plummeted, a few snow flurries followed so I went into one of the lodges for warmth. Had some hot chocolate, the lodges were small and smoky. Conversation soon got round to the usual "why are we here in this cold, desolate place?", we considered for next year's holiday, the Maldives perhaps? Looking forward to tomorrow but not the night, very noisy already, people celebrating or commiserating their endeavors on their way back down to civilisation.

Michele's birthday today, the cook made her a chocolate cake which looked great but had been made in a pressure cooker and was almost uneatable. Back to the tent just before eight, my water bottle filled with hot boiled water to keep me warm in the night. Put on more clothes to sleep in, morning call is at 4:45, my cold is streaming and I have a pile of soggy tissues in the corner of the tent, I guess they will be frozen in the morning.