Phortse to Pheriche - November 5th 1999

Porridge and eggs to start the day at Phortse, away at 7:40am, long walk to Pangboche the morning into the rising sun all the way along a dusty track with scattered rocks and pebbles. Ama Dablam in front of us all the way, passed Tengboche on the opposite side of the valley. Saw a couple of helicopters going up valley, presumably fetching ill of injured trekkers. Lovely red berberis covering the hillsides. At Pangboche visited the old monastery and had a refreshment break. The restaurant owner had a stamp collection on the walls, no wonder postcards don't reach home. Bought a couple of Snickers bars at 100Rp each to put away for the hard days to come. Two little children playing in the filth, innocent and beautiful.

Upwards again following the river northwards, similar scrub countryside with berberis predominant with some stunted juniper. Passed lots of chortens, mani stones and a memorial to a Korean climber. Lunch of sardines, tibetan bread and potatoes whilst looking down at Pangboche. A long morning's walk, 5 and a half hours mostly uphill.

Valley opened up, caught a glimpse of Pumori before the cloud came down. Everest was visible for a few minutes before the cloud obscured it. Soon Pheriche came into view at the side of the river. Looked quite different to the other villages, more like a prison or army camp. Camped beside another Himalayan Lodge, it must be possible to travel right through the Khumbu staying only at Himalayan Lodges! This one had a hot shower, I joined the shower list in eighth place. As usual the shower consisted of a bucket of boiling water placed in a container on the top of the shower cubicle or rather shed. 150Rp later and I'm clean again. The lodge had a large lounge witha yak dung fuelled stove. This kept us warm all evening till we went back to the ice covered tents.