Gokyo to Na - November 3rd 1999

Coldest night so far, ice inside tent, water bottles frozen in morning. Another cloudless blue sky, taking it easy today to get my strength back. Climbed up the ridge behind the campside to view the Ngozumpa Glacier. On my own today, complete wilderness, can hear the glacier moving, surface a jumble of rocks, ice and small lakes. Saw rocks falling into the lakes as the glacier grinds its way southwards. Took a sequence of five photographs showing the panorama from Cho Oyu in the North, Eastwards back towards Machermo. Sat alone with my thoughts on the top of the ridge surrounded by the huge snow capped mountains - so peaceful. Walked along the ridge with the Gokyo valley to my left and the Ngozumpa Glacier to my right. I could see people making their way up Gokyo Ri on the opposite side of the valley.

On the way down started to feel the heat again. I think that it is the reflective glare that affects me badly. Sat outside the Gokyo Resort, a group of tea houses with, in effect, greenhouses for the guests to sit in. These are the remnant of the "Balloons over Everest " expedition. An American came out saying that it was much too hot in there. Back to the tea house feeling hot and light headed, I've been at 4,900m so I guess that's part of the reason.

Set off towards Na in the afternoon, a breeze blew up and before long there were clouds which made the walk bearable. Back past the glacial lakes, all turquoise in the sun, some ducks on the second lake. Na is on the opposite side of the valley to Machermo and Dole. We had seen the track on our way up the valley and saw what we thought were landslides that may have taken out the track. We met people coming the other way who said the trail was OK. The path went down to the Dudh Kosi through scrubby land. The path was difficult to see and easy to lose. Eventually found a small bridge or rather three tree trunks lashed together. Over the bridge and up the valley side into Na. Camped by the Cholatse View Lodge.

Played cards after a meal then turned in, will it be warmer tonight ?