Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding  October 27th 1999

Overnight at the Royal Singi Hotel in Kathmandu, new luxury hotel pity the air conditioning doesn't work. Alarm call at 4:00 am, hoping to get the first plane out to Lukla. Into a bus in the dark, kitbags and rucksacs roped to the top of the bus, huddles of nepalis at street corners, some walking or on bikes with no lights, mangy dogs roaming around. Arrived at airport at 5:50am, clear starry sky so hopefully no delays to our 6:45am flight. First hurdle is the luggage, there is a 12kg limit for the Lukla flight. I am in a group of 18 trekkers with Exodus Travels from the U.K. Kitbags weighed 12 at a time, the scale goes round to 95kg, so O.K! Into the departure lounge to wait for Skyline Airways to call the flight. Delay! morning mists slow to clear, our plane left Lukla on time but was forced to land somewhere on the way to Kathmandu due to the mists. Sun up at 6:55am, flight eventually called at 8:15am.

Piled into a small bus over to the plane, a 16 seater Twin Otter which was being refuelled. Got a window seat on the Himalaya side of the plane. Soon we were up and away, amazing views of the jagged peaks of the Himalaya, terraced valleys below. The air hostess served us a meal! Sandwich, cake, crisps and a bag of nuts. She had to scramble over all our gear but seemed at ease. Pilots kept the cabin door open, saw the Lukla runway as the plane swooped down, it looked more like a ski-jump than a runway but we were soon down to a chorus of cheers. I guess the pilots are used to this.

Out into the hustle and bustle at Lukla Airport (9300') - a runway, small taxiing area, control tower, check in/out building and cafeteria. Piles of kitbags and luggage everywhere for people returning from their treks. Planes landing, loading, reloading and immediately taking off back from Kathmandu. Planes from many small airlines. Met by our trekking guides from Topke Treks and led down to a lodge for some lemon tea whilst our bags we sorted out. Lukla is a scruffy place with lots of rubbish everywhere. There are plenty of places to stay, a few souvenir shops for that last momento before going home and places to change money. A bottle of water costs 100rp.

Our group hit the trail towards Phakding around mid-day when the temperature had soared to 26C. Passed the local butcher hacking up an unfortunate buffalo at the roadside, the flies were enjoying it! The trail lead off gently downhill at first then up and down with the glacial green Dudh Kosi river to our left. Many large mani carved boulders, must remember to keep them on the right as we pass. The monsoon had recently ended and in places the track had been washed away. Lunch at the side of the first of many suspension bridges just before Ghat where the Thado Khola flows into the Dudh Kosi. There were hand ropes at the side of the wooden bridge but these were at Nepali height, too low for me. Reached Phakding at around 3ish, a prosperous village. Tents were erected behind the Everest Lodge. Our 4 dzobchuks arrived and were tethered near the toilet tent, they were soon doing their best to demolish it with their huge horns. Very hot today, is this normal I asked myself. Went off to the Namaste Lodge for a piece of their reknowned Apple Pie, don't miss it!

Phakding is at 8650', we have lost 650' since Lukla. Went for a walk around the village. At the northern end is a new wire suspension bridge. There was no-one else around so four of us ran across at full pelt to celebrate our first day out on the trail. A large new hotel had been built next to the bridge. There were a large party of Americans exercising their frisbees (hope that is the correct spelling).